Food Trail Pakistan: Karachi

This review was originally commissioned by, and published in, Images. The version below is slightly different in its structure, although the contents are almost the same. The published version can be seen here. I must confess I am wary of any restaurant that opens to a slew of rave reviews on social media, especially when said reviews tend to be praising the same aspects of the place. After all, in this age of alt-truth, who is to say what is real and what is not? Dialogue is one such new entrant, whose arrival has been accompanied by a slew of positive news. It's a large property, with seating on the ground floor as well as the basement. The ground floor, with vast expanses of plate glass and an open kitchen. is a welcoming space, with tables spaced well from each other. The overall vibe is industrial, with some contemporary flourishes, such as their 'selfie wall' which, with its backlit glass bottles, brings a distinct Buddha Bar vibe into play.  The basement ...

This is intended to be the first in a series of occasional recipes based on my misadventures in the kitchen A few weeks ago, I received a WhatsApp message on one of the groups I am a part of. My sister in law was looking for recommendations for a clear chicken soup. In a fit of madness, I offered to make her some. Clear chicken soup; how hard can it be, right? I took as inspiration the noodle soups common in Thai and Vietnamese cooking, and while the result is something that isn't by any means an authentic offering, it takes inspiration from South East Asian cuisine in general and mashes up a few western influences for good measure. Basically, I looked up a few recipes online, figured out what people do with this generally, and then went ahead and developed something for myself based on the flavour and fragrance notes that I like. What was key to me was that the broth needs to be packed full of flavour, so I basically threw in whatever I thought would help on that account...

I have a confession to make: I happen to be of the Memon persuasion. As a result, I am genetically predisposed to be a sucker for Khao Suey. Also as a result, I struggle to believe that there is anyone who can make better Khao Suey than those which are made at home. This makes me a very difficult customer when it comes to evaluating Khao Suey, and woe betide an inferior product. Perversely, this means I almost always try the Khao Suey when they are available, so have had my fair share. I was aware of  Pepperlime & Sugarplum owner  Saira Faruqi more as a cakes and desserts specialist for a few years, back when she would prepare desserts to order for friends and family. Her ascent into the top tier of Karachi's customised cake artists has been swift, and one that I have observed from a distance, as well as enjoying the fruits of her efforts on occasion. It wasn't really until the 2017 (rain-hit) edition of the Karachi Eat Festival that I was exposed to her Khao Suey of...

Loco, the latest 'it' restaurant to open its doors in Karachi. As it opened its doors, the euphoria was great, and the frustration was great also. Karachiites, desperate to worship at the altar of the God of Tapas, were unable to get through to make reservations, and much wailing or gnashing of teeth ensued on various social media fora. Some even went so far as to swear solemn oaths to never eat there, after multiple failed attempts to secure a table.  Is it worth the heartache? Let's find out.  First of all, the reservation process. Clearly the Loco team has done something to streamline the process. I called on Monday for a table for Wednesday. the phone was picked up within three rings, and my reservation was promptly confirmed.  So far, so good.  On the day, the restaurant itself is small (I counted 28 seats) but very well decorated, with high ceilings, a lovely mural and a Frida Kahlo style print on the wall. Edison lightbulbs abound, as is the ...

Mocca Karachi - Ramadan Coffee Run I've liked the Mocca vibe ever since it opened in Karachi a few months ago. The layout is spacious, with a reasonable space between tables (something not to be sniffed at, given Karachi real estate prices), the place itself is clean and brightly lit, and the staff are friendly. I've visited it a few times since its opening, primarily because it is a fairly inoffensive spot (not the most ringing endorsement, I know), tends to not be that crowded and, being farther away from the Espresso / Lal's area, is easier to find parking.  Last night, my daughter and I decided at short notice to hop out for a cup of coffee and something sweet. She's got very definite opinions (at 4 years old, can't expect anything else) and decided that she must have a macaron, so off to Mocca we went. It wasn't that late in the evening by Ramadan standards, around 9 pm, so we found parking very easily and the place was maybe half full.  We we...